Maui's Ride
In its first 52 miles, on the Hana Highway, the drive rounds over 600 curves, crosses 56 bridges, and passes several waterfalls, all the while displaying spectacular coastal and mountain views. Driving east on HI 36 from Kahului, the route passes the airport and the entrance to Kanaha Beach County Park, which has a campground. The drive crosses waving fields of sugar cane, and then follows the coast. H. A. Baldwin County Beach Park offers another campground.Six miles from Kahului, Paia, a former plantation town, has boutiqued itself with pastel-colored shops and false-front buildings, successfully attracting tourist eyes and tourist pocketbooks. Three miles farther, Hookipa Beach Park lures sailboarders from all over the world. If the winds are up, it is worth stopping to watch the world's best sailboarders in action. At the intersection of HI 365, HI 36 becomes HI 360, the official Hana Highway. Mile-posting signs start over at this point.
At the Hoolawa Bridge (2-mile marker), a mile-long foot trail leads to Twin Falls, a pretty spot with a small pool. The trail begins at a stile over a fence on the right side of the road, near a "No Trespassing" sign that everyone ignores. Farther down the road, between mileposts 9 and 10, is another possible diversion, the Waikamoi Ridge Trail Nature Walk, a mile-long loop trail through a rain forest. It begins on the right side of the highway. At mile marker 11, the drive reaches Puohokamoa Falls, which tumbles into a small pool easily seen from the road. Kaumahina State Wayside, a rest stop, has drinking water, restrooms, and picnic tables. A lookout on the eastern side of the wayside provides a fine view of the Keanae Peninsula. After Kaumahina, HI 360 hugs the mountain -- steep walls of rock rising on one side, sheer sea cliffs dropping off on the other as it descends to Honomanu Bay -- only to rise precariously again after crossing Honomanu Stream. Careful driving is required here; portions of the road are very narrow, especially on the curves, and many sections are one-way.
Another worthwhile detour, about 3 miles from Kaumahina, is a road off HI 360 which descends to the small village of Keanae on the peninsula of the same name. Here, residents, many of Hawaiian ancestry, fish, grow taro, and live a partly self-sufficient lifestyle. The peninsula provides colorful seascapes and a fine view of Haleakala.
The Keanae Arboretum, at milepost 16, displays hundreds of tropical plants, shrubs, and trees. An entire section is devoted to palms and another to plants introduced by the original Hawaiian settlers. Also on the grounds are several functioning taro paddies. An upper section of the arboretum, reached by a rough trail, is devoted to native and introduced rain forest plants. There are no facilities on the grounds. Admission is free.
Returning to HI 360, the Wailua Wayside Overlook lies just under 0.5 mile from the Keanae turnoff. A short trail leads to a view of the Koolau Gap, a huge rent in the wall of Haleakala Crater, where ancient lavas once poured from the volcano to the sea. This massive spillway is now completely covered by vegetation. The nearby staircase leads to a sweeping view of the coast and Keanae Peninsula. Three miles farther, at Puaakaa State Wayside, there are two small pools connected by a waterfall. Rest rooms, drinking water, and picnic tables are available.
The drive now begins to gradually straighten, the side of the highway becomes less precipitous, and pasture land starts to intrude on the rain forest. Waianapanapa State Park, just past the Hana Airport turnoff, is a good place to stop for the night, offering a campground and low-cost state cabins. The town of Hana is only 2 miles farther down the road. The oceanside park features black sand and a lovely cove for swimming. Two large caves within the park are collapsed lava tubes, partly filled with fresh water; it is possible to swim in the upper one. A sign at the upper cave tells the story of a Hawaiian princess who used the cave to hide from her jealous husband who suspected her of having an affair with another man. The husband saw her reflection on the water and killed her. Ever since, the legend goes, the pool turns red at certain times of the year.
Also leading through the park is an alaloa, an ancient footpath connecting towns and villages in the coastal area. Alaloa existed on all of the islands, and are sometimes called the "King's Highway," in honor of the rulers of Hawaii who had them built for communication and the convenience of the King's tax gatherers. Maui is the only island on which alaloa completely circled the coastline. Today it remains the island with the only complete coastal road. The southern section of the trail leads all the way to Hana, crossing spectacular coastal scenery, where waves crash against rocky cliffs, sending spray showering over hikers walking the path.
In spite of the fact that many visitors to Maui seem to consider a trip to Hana much like a journey to Mecca, Hana is a fairly ordinary small Hawaiian town. It has a beach park on Hana Bay, a small museum, two churches, two stores, a luxury hotel, some other accommodations, and not much else. But for those with the time to do so, an overnight stay here is recommended to provide the leisure to stop at points of interest along the drive and to enjoy the surrounding area. The Hasegawa General Store, which had a song composed for it and is well known to old-time Hana travelers, is no more. It burned down several years ago. The new store is more modern, but not as picturesque or as interesting as the old one, which stocked everything from matches to machetes.
Hana Beach Park, with its brown sand beach, is attractively located on Hana Bay. Kaahumanu, the favorite wife of Kamehameha, was born in a nearby cave. A short trail at the end of the road leads to the cave. At the time of her birth, a war was raging between Maui and Hawaii, and her family was hiding in the cave. After Kamehameha's death Kaahumanu became regent during the reigns of Kamehameha's two sons, and for thirteen years was the most powerful figure in the kingdom. Initially opposed to Christianity, she eventually converted, providing a major impetus to its spread throughout the islands.
A side trip from Hana allows a visit to Piilanihale Heiau, the largest temple in the Hawaiian Islands. It is located on the grounds of Kahanu Gardens, about 4 miles north of town, on Ulaino Road. The gardens are only open on certain days and times, and there is an admission charge. Call 808-248-8912 for information. Driving past the gardens to the end of Ulaino Road, and continuing on foot across the stream and then a few hundred yards along the coast, reveals Blue Pool, a fresh water pool fed by a wide waterfall trickling over a wide rock wall.
Another great place to visit while in Hana is Kaihalulu, better known as Red Sand Beach. Here, in a secluded cove, red cinders have washed from the hillside to form a unique beach. It is a dramatic setting. Waves pounding in from the open ocean are blocked by a natural breakwater, leaving a large inshore pool that is usually safe for swimming.
To find Kaihalulu, head toward Hana Bay. Just before reaching the bay, turn right at the last crossroad, pass the school and park near the end of the road before the hotel cottages. Cross the open grassy field on the left, walking diagonally toward the ocean. At the corner of the hotel fence, a trail leads steeply downhill and then turns left, following the shoreline to the beach. Due to its seclusion, nudists sometimes frequent this beach.
Departing from Hana, the drive proceeds south on HI 31 (Piilani Highway), passing through small, rural settlements and beautiful coastal scenery. The road soon becomes narrow and winding, but despite its condition it is heavily traveled. Many celebrities own homes and estates along this route, but they are not visible from the road. About 6 miles from Hana, the drive crosses a bridge where Wailua Falls drops into a gorge below. Traffic often jams up here as people stop to take photographs.
Ten miles from Hana, the route enters the Kipahulu Section of Haleakala National Park, with its famous Oheo Pools. Many of them are dramatically visible on both sides of the bridge where the drive enters the park. At the parking lot (on the left after crossing the bridge), a path leads to the lower pools. Swimming is safe in the pools except during periods of heavy rain or very high water; ocean swimming in this area is dangerous.
For many years, this area was known as Seven Sacred Pools, although the pools were never sacred and there are a good deal more than seven of them. It is a catchy phrase, apparently invented to attract tourists to the Hana area, and is rightfully fading from use. A campground is located here, and although rest rooms are available, there is no drinking water. No permit or fee is required. Almost all of the upper part of Kipahulu Valley is a scientific reserve, closed to the public. However, across from the parking lot, a trail leads uphill to Makahiku Falls Overlook and Waimoku Falls, a 4-mile round-trip hike to a lovely bridal veil falls. On the way, the trail passes through a tall bamboo forest so thick that it blots out the sky.
From the Oheo Pools the drive continues to Palapala Hoomau Church, just over a mile from the pools. Charles A. Lindbergh, the man who made the first non-stop, solo, transatlantic flight, is buried here. A longtime resident of Kipahulu, the famed "Lone Eagle" personally selected this isolated spot as his last resting place. The route for the next 6 miles to Kaupo is narrow and winding, requiring slow, careful driving. Traffic is sparse, but meeting another vehicle on this section usually requires that someone back up. The coastal scenery is wild and dramatic.
Four miles from the Oheo Pools the pavement ends, and a rough gravel road takes over for the next 4.5 miles. At the small settlement of Kaupo, a store is the only structure on the highway. The store keeps erratic hours and will probably be closed. Upslope from the road looms the Kaupo Gap, a giant crack in the wall of Haleakala Crater that in ancient times spilled huge lava flows all the way to the sea. Leaving Kaupo, the road remains very narrow for another 2 miles.
When the pavement begins again, the road widens and remains so. After about 16 miles on the paved road, the drive reaches the southwest tip of Maui, at an elevation of 2,000 feet. Here, a sweeping view of the ocean and four islands unfolds -- Molokai to the north, Lanai and Kahoolawe to the west, and the crescent-shaped islet of Molokini, below, just offshore. Directly below the highway, lies La Perouse Bay and the lava fields from the last eruption on Maui, which took place around 1790. The bay was named for a French explorer, who was the first foreigner to come ashore on Maui. After his ships left the island, they visited Australia, then disappeared, and he was never heard from again.
The drive now turns north and enters the fertile farm and ranchlands of Kula. The cool climate here is ideal for nurturing certain flowers and vegetables, such as protea, lettuce, cabbage, and the famous Maui onions. At Ulupalakua Ranch, HI 31 becomes HI 37, which it will remain for the 23 miles back to Kahului. The tasting room of the Tedeschi Winery, located in a former jail, allows you to sample and buy its red and white wines, champagne, and pineapple wine. This is one of only two wineries in the islands; the other is located in the town of Volcano, on the island of Hawaii.
The route now becomes a delightful 15-mile drive through upcountry Maui, passing through small towns and lush pastures, while providing marvelous panoramic views of land and sea all the way to the West Maui mountains. The drive ends with the return to Kahului.
Volcano Runs
Hawaii Volcanoes National Park encompasses more than 229,000 acres spread over 35 miles, from an altitude of 13,677 feet to sea level. The park may contain more vegetation zones than any other in the national park system. The center of most of the park's activity is Kilauea Crater. Although the volcano has been constantly active since 1983, the eruption is currently taking place on its flank in the East Rift Zone, an area accessible only to knowledgeable and experienced hikers. However, lava flows from the eruption are entering the sea at the end of the Chain of Craters Road, and this area is reachable by car.Kilauea Crater lies at an elevation of 4,000 feet, where days are usually warm, although they can be cool, especially when raining or windy. Nights are cool, ranging from 40 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit. The caldera area receives about 102 inches of rain per year. The park charges an admission of five dollars per person or ten dollars per car, which is good for seven days. Golden Age and Golden Access Passes are honored. The park is 28 miles from Hilo, via State Highway 11.
Since one of the main attractions of this trip is the active lava flowing along the seacoast, it is important to inquire about latest activity at the visitor center prior to departure. This itinerary can be easily modified to take advantage of the eruption, or to visit the flows at night. For venturing out on the lava flows, good walking shoes are advisable, and a flashlight is necessary after dark.
The drive begins at the visitor center, where Kilauea caldera dominates the immediate vicinity and the huge mass of Mauna Loa looms in the distance. The center shows a film about the volcano every hour and books, maps, and brochures about the park are available. Directly across the highway, the Volcano House Hotel offers a spectacular view of Kilauea Crater.
Leaving the visitor center, the drive turns right on Crater Rim Drive, making short stops at the Sulphur Banks (0.3 mile on the right) and the Steam Vents (0.5 mile on the left). The route then passes Kilauea Military Camp, an R & R center for military personnel and their families. Kilauea Overlook, on the left, provides another fine view over the crater. The Volcano Observatory and Jaggar Museum, 2.5 miles from the visitor center, offers interesting displays and another crater overlook, this one with a good view down into Halemaumau, Kilauea's fire pit.
Continuing 3 more miles around Crater Rim Drive, a large parking lot on the left provides the opportunity to take a short walk to the rim of Halemaumau, the source of many of Kilauea's eruptions over the years. Flowers, fruit, or a bottle of Gordon's gin are sometimes seen on the edge of the crater. They are offerings to Pele, goddess of fire and the volcano, who is said to reside in Halemaumau. Pele reportedly has a taste for gin and a preference for Gordon's.
Leaving Halemaumau, the drive passes Keanakakoi Crater and enters a forest where the ground is still covered by cinders from an eruption of Kilauea Iki in 1959. The eruption blanketed the area to a depth of several feet and killed the original forest. The present forest sprang up after the eruption.
Two miles from Halemaumau, at the intersection of Chain of Craters Road, the drive turns right. Prior to 1986, this road became State Highway 130 when it left the park boundary, continuing to Kalapana and on to Hilo. On November 26th of that year the connection was severed by lava flows, which have continued to cover large segments of the park. Kilauea has since destroyed the park's Wahaula Visitor Center, Kamoamoa Campground, and Lae Apuki, the ruins of an old fishing village. At this writing,the lava barrier stands west of the Kalapana Trailhead, which has been overrun. Outside the park, the volcano has claimed the town of Kalapana, the Kaimu Black Sand Beach, two beach parks, and several subdivisions.
Chain of Craters Road follows a line of pit craters formed in prehistoric time. The most interesting of these is Pauahi Crater, 3 miles from the intersection, where a wooden platform affords a view into the crater and of Mauna Ulu, the large lava mountain to the front. After Pauahi Crater, the drive pulls into the parking lot at Mauna Ulu (Growing Mountain). This imposing lava shield was formed by a large eruption lasting from 1969 to 1974, and is responsible for the huge solidified cascades of black lava that appear later along the route. A short walk toward Mauna Ulu reveals a remnant of the old Chain of Craters Road, which was covered by the 1969-1974 eruption. The present road is a rerouting of the old one.
A walk out on the lava fields to the left along the Napau Crater Trail passes among tree molds, formed when lava pounded against trees of the former forest and then receded. Looking down into some of them, it is still possible to see the impression of the tree trunk. Should an eruption be occurring at Puu O'o, the source of the current activity in the park, it can be viewed from the top of Puu Huluhulu, the swaybacked hill visible about a mile away, left of Mauna Ulu. The Napau Crater Trail, which begins near the parking lot, crosses the lava fields to the path leading to the top of Puu Huluhulu.
Back on Chain of Craters Road, the Kealakomo Picnic Pavilion, about 7 miles further down the road, commands an expansive view of the Puna coastline and its lava fields. (If this is a lunch stop, a resident mongoose may appear in the rocks below the right side of the pavilion sniffing for a handout.)
The drive now drops more steeply and makes a long hairpin turn. A pullout at the bottom of the descent allows an impressive look back at the black Niagara made by Mauna Ulu's lavas pouring over the Holei Pali. A 1.5-mile round-trip trail from the next pullout leads to the Puu Loa petroglyphs, a large field containing rock carvings of human figures, sails, circles, dots, and other objects. A boardwalk circles the fragile carvings to prevent damage from foot traffic. The significance of these petroglyphs is unknown. They have been found on all islands, but the Big Island has far more than any other.
A mile past the Puu Loa pullout, the road reaches the sea and follows the coastline until it ends at a barrier staffed by park rangers. From here it is usually possible to walk to where the road has been cut by the latest lava flow. This is an area of constant change. The show depends on what Pele is up to that day, and what the rangers feel is safe. Sometimes it is possible to walk right up to lava flows pouring into the sea, sometimes not. At times the hillsides glow bright orange and vegetation bursts into flame just yards off the road. At other times there is nothing to see but tons of cooling black lava. When activity permits, temporary trails are marked out along the new flows, even as heat still radiates from their hot cores.
From the end of the road the drive returns along Chain of Craters Road back to Crater Rim Drive and proceeds directly across the drive to the Devastation Trail parking lot. A fifteen-minute walk along a boardwalk traverses an area where cinders from the 1959 eruption of Kilauea-Iki destroyed an entire forest. Most of the forest has regenerated now, and the walk is much less dramatic than it was twenty-five years ago, when it was a striking tour through hundreds of fallen trees, strewn like giant match sticks across a barren, cinder landscape. The walk ends at a viewpoint overlooking Kilauea Iki. The brown hill on the left is Puu Puai, the cinder cone formed by the 1959 eruption, where the fountaining lava spewed an incredible 1,900 feet into the sky.
Leaving the Devastation Trail parking lot the drive turns left, continuing along Crater Rim Drive 1.5 miles to Thurston Lava Tube. A short trail makes its way into a depression filled with lush vegetation and enters the illuminated lava tube from a collapsed roof. Lava tubes are formed by lava flows that cool and harden on the surface but continue flowing underground. When the flow finally ceases, the tube empties, leaving an underground passage. Many ancient Hawaiians used lava tubes as burial chambers.
Leaving the lava tube, the drive makes one more stop at Kilauea Iki Overlook, where it is just possible to pick out the trail crossing the center of the crater. Hikers may be visible on this trail, making a loop trip from Volcano House. The drive now returns to the visitor center.
Oahu's Rides
The North Shore of Oahu is a world-famous surfing destination. It remains mostly undeveloped and somewhat seedy. It is essentially a one-road-wide community, and residents seem to want it to stay that way. Honolulu County has cooperated by directing development toward other parts of the island. Along with the pockets of run-down housing and rickety store fronts, the combination of rural, mountain, and ocean scenery make the drive interesting as well as beautiful.This oceanfront route includes spectacular coastal scenery, distant mountain views, and many of the most famous surfing and swimming beaches in the Hawaiian Islands. Nine beach parks are located along the route, plus miles of undeveloped sandy beach shoreline. Although homes line the road along most of the eastern portion of the drive, only two small towns lie on the route, Haleiwa and Waialua. Mount Kaala, the highest point on Oahu at 4,020 feet, dominates much of the drive. Huge waves batter this coast in winter, attracting surfers from around the world anxious to test their skills, and tourists eager to watch them.
A railroad once paralleled this route, beginning in Honolulu, running along Oahu's western shore, rounding the island at Kaena Point, and ending in Kahuku. Although it carried passengers, its main function was to transport sugar from the northern plantations to Honolulu. Military requirements of World War II brought construction of roads through central Oahu, and after the war it became cheaper and quicker to transport the sugar by road. The railroad finally ceased operation at the end of 1947. The drive begins at the entrance to the Turtle Bay Hilton Hotel, near Kahuku Point, the northernmost tip of Oahu. Turtle Bay, accessible from the hotel grounds, is a pretty crescent of sand west of the hotel. A mile-long beach hike leads east from the hotel grounds to Kahuku Point, a wild, isolated place.
Driving southwest from the hotel on HI 83, a line of windmills comes into view on the hills to the left. Designed to provide wind-generated power to augment Oahu's electric grid, the project is still functioning, but has been plagued with technical problems. The largest wind generator in the world is located here, its 100 meter blade longer than a football field. It may be glimpsed by looking backward from the route on the mountain side of the road.
An interesting historical footnote involves these same hills. On December 7, 1941, a two-man radar site just above the highway picked up the Japanese planes on their way to attack Pearl Harbor. They reported the planes to their duty officer, who assumed they were a flight of U.S. B-17 bombers due to arrive from the mainland that same day, and told them to forget about it!
About 3.5 miles from the hotel, Sunset Beach appears on the right, off the highway. For a world-famous surfing site, there are, surprisingly, no facilities. Parking is along the shoulder of the road; it is crowded and difficult, and tour buses add to the problem. The only restrooms are portable toilets, and there are no showers and no water. But the beach is beautiful, with deep, white sand and great views. Swimming can be dangerous, especially in winter.
From Sunset westward, the route passes more world-famous surfing sites -- Gas Chambers, Banzai Pipeline, and Chun's Reef, to name a few. Most are not visible from the highway, but are announced by cars with empty surf racks parked along the road. Shark's Cove, two miles from Sunset, is a popular snorkeling and dive spot. Old-time residents say the cove got its name from a large tiger shark that once frequented the area. However, the increase in human activity over the years has apparently driven the shark to more peaceful waters. Although calm in summer, winter swells bring waves crashing into the cove and a neighboring tide pool, sending spray as high as 30 feet.
Just past Shark's Cove, at the Foodland supermarket, the drive turns left off HI 83 onto Pupukea Road, for a visit to the Puu O Mahuka Heiau. The access road to the heiau is marked by a sign on the right, near the top of the ridge and behind the store. Puu O Mahuka was a luakini heiau -- a temple where human sacrifices were performed. In 1794, three sailors from Captain George Vancouver's ship Daedalus were reportedly sacrificed here. Today, the heiau is little more than a pile of rock, but the view of the coastline all the way to Kaena Point is unsurpassed. At the end of Pupukea Road, a dirt road leads to the Kaunala Trail, a 5-mile hiking loop through a beautiful coastal forest. Because it lies within a military training area, the trail is open for hiking only on weekends and holidays.
Returning to HI 83, a few hundred yards past the Foodland store is Three Tables, which gets its name from three flat patches of reef that rise out of the sea just offshore. This is a maritime conservation district with excellent snorkeling and scuba diving. Turning around a bend, the drive circles Waimea Bay, where waves 25 feet and higher thunder ashore during the winter months. Traffic halts to watch the few expert surfers who brave these winter monsters. Paradoxically, in summer, Waimea can be like a lake, with sailboats riding peacefully at anchor in the bay.
Behind the bay, occupying a narrow valley, Waimea Falls Park is laid out like a botanical garden, with a large waterfall and pool at its end. Admission is charged. Just before entering the gate to the park, Hale o Lono Heiau stands guard. Consecrated to Lono, the god of agriculture and harvests, the heiau has been restored, and can be seen at the far end of the visitor parking lot.
Three and a half miles from Waimea Bay, the road forks. To the left a new road bypasses the town of Haleiwa and continues on to Honolulu. The scenic drive takes the right fork at a sign proclaiming "Historic Haleiwa Town." Haleiwa (population 2,500) is the more developed of the two towns on the north shore and is a popular tourist stop as well as the local shopping center for area residents. It has a variety of surfing and tourist shops, several restaurants, two supermarkets, gas stations, and banks, but no accommodations. An excellent shoreline campground is located at Kaiaka Bay County Park on Haleiwa Road.
Once through Haleiwa, HI 83 ends at a traffic circle. Driving straight through the circle picks up HI 930, which, after 1 mile, turns right at a T junction and enters Waialua (population 4,000). The town has only recently acquired its "former plantation town" status. Waialua Sugar Company, the last plantation on Oahu, ceased production in 1996, and the large sugar mill, occupying a prominent position in the town, is closed. The work force of mostly Filipino ancestry is still in an uncertain transition. In the hills above town, along Highway 803, experimental plots of coffee, macadamia nuts, and vegetables are being grown, and there is talk of a large-scale forest industry.
Leaving Waialua, HI 930 proceeds in a straight line. Ranches, small farms, and former cane acreage occupy the land between the mountains and the sea. The mountains on the left are the Waianae Range, which ends at Kaena Point. Just past the Mokuleia Polo Field, 4 miles from Waialua, a private campground is located at Camp Mokuleia, an attractive waterfront location. Dillingham Airfield begins here, its runway paralleling the highway. Glider rides and parachute jumps may be arranged. The Kealia Trail (7 miles round-trip) climbs from the west end of the airfield to the summit of the Waianae, for a sweeping view of the leeward coast. Opposite the airfield, Mokuleia County Beach Park also offers camping. In spite of its proximity to the highway, the 3-mile stretch of beach from here to the end of the pavement is one of the most isolated on Oahu, rarely visited except by shoreline fishermen and beachcombers.
One mile past the airfield, another private campground is located within the YMCA's Camp Erdman, on the ocean. Cabins can be rented here as well. The pavement ends about 1 mile past Camp Erdman, and a barrier across the road prevents further vehicle traffic. A rough jeep track continues along the coast to Kaena Point Natural Area Reserve, and hikers and bicycles are welcome. It is a 6-mile round-trip from the end of the pavement to the lighthouse at the point. A few bridge abutments from the old railroad can be seen along the jeep track. This wild, windswept place is ideal for beachcombing and shoreline exploration. Some rare beach plants grow only here, and at a few other locations in the Hawaiian Islands. The reserve is a nesting ground for sea birds, including the Laysan Albatross. Green sea turtles also nest here. The Hawaiian Monk Seal occasionally comes ashore here to bask on the beach.